Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Quote: Freya Stark
“Travel does what good novelists also do to the life of everyday, placing it like a picture in a frame or a gem in its setting, so that the intrinsic qualities are made more clear. Travel does this with the very stuff that everyday life is made of, giving to it the sharp contour and meaning of art.”
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Maldives tourism hit by negative reports
MALDIVES authorites have pleaded with foreign media outlets to
be more objective when reporting about the political crisis in the
country, saying it was beginning to affect its tourism industry. Tourism Minister Ahmed Adheeb, who was appointed just five days after the country’s president Mohamed Nasheed was forced to resign on February 7 (TTG Asia e-Daily, February 8, 2012), said: “The situation is under control, but there have been alot of bad messages, exaggerated reports and misinformation going out through the international media. This is affecting tourism.” According to Adheeb, visitors to the Maldives could be assured of safety due to the destination’s “one island, one resort” concept. “No tourist or hotel has been harmed in Male,” he added. “Whichever side (of the conflict) we are on, we know tourism is key and no one wants it harmed. We need to get this message across to the world.” Regular clashes between Nasheed’s supporters and state elements, though confined to the capital Male, have already precipitated into an increasing number of cancellations from overseas markets. Maldives Association of Tourism Industry members have so far reported some 500 cancellations, according to its secretary-general, Sim Mohamed Ibrahim. “There is some concern, with lots of inquiries from China in particular,” he said. “Flights (from China) that are normally 80-90 per cent full are now coming in with only 60 per cent seats filled.” David Kevan from UK-based CHIC Locations said while the company was still sending clients to the Maldives, they were actively monitoring the situation, “and without doubt it is negative destination publicity”. Michelle Flake, contracting & marketing manager for Scaevola Travel, an inbound operator that handles the China market, said they were still getting enquiries and bookings on a daily basis. “When clients ask me (about the situation), I tell them that as a foreigner living in the capital, I am not affected,” she said. “As for clients on a resort, unless they watch the news, they are unlikely to be aware of anything going on in the outside world.” |
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Is you luggage locked and secured? Is it still safe?
The following video shows how easy someone to open your luggage by using just a pen. Don't put valuable stuff inside the check-in luggage (if possible).
Friday, February 24, 2012
Traveling agency female boss held for drug
SEPANG, Malaysia: A businesswoman allegedly paid her staff to be drug
mules and brought in 75kg of drugs said to be worth RM18.7mil (S$7.8
million) over the past four months.
The 43-year-old woman, who runs a travel agency, and three others were nabbed in a Customs sting, that also netted 3.3kg of syabu estimated to be worth RM825,000 on Feb 14.
One of those caught was her young Nigerian boyfriend who is a computer science student in a private college.
The other two were said to be her business partners, aged 25 and 27.
KL International Airport Customs deputy director Siti Baya Berahan said initial investigations found one of the women's employees had landed at the low-cost carrier terminal (LCCT) from Phnom Penh the night before and had slipped past the Customs checkpoint.
“We believe her staff abused the green lane facility and special treatment accorded to tour agencies to camouflage the illicit trade.
“Initial investigations revealed six of her staff, including a woman, had succeeded in smuggling drugs 25 times over the past four months using the modus operandi.
“Based on a rough estimate, they may have smuggled in 75kg of drugs worth RM18.7mil during the period,” she said here yesterday.
Siti Baya said the businesswoman and the Nigerian were nabbed at a house in Kepong while the other two men, who were employees of her travel agency, were detained at another location where Customs officers also seized a bag containing syabu hidden among clothes and children's toys.
“The four have been remanded to assist in the investigation under Section 39B of the Dangerous Drugs Act 1952,” she said.
The offence carries the death penalty if convicted.
Siti Baya said investigations showed each drug mule was paid RM3,000 when they returned from “familiarisation trips” to Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Manila, Bangladesh, Johannesburg, Cape Town, Mozambique and Singapore among other destinations.
She said the police had detained six of the agency workers, aged 20 to 30, who allegedly acted as drug mules.
They would appear as prosecution witnesses.
The 43-year-old woman, who runs a travel agency, and three others were nabbed in a Customs sting, that also netted 3.3kg of syabu estimated to be worth RM825,000 on Feb 14.
One of those caught was her young Nigerian boyfriend who is a computer science student in a private college.
The other two were said to be her business partners, aged 25 and 27.
KL International Airport Customs deputy director Siti Baya Berahan said initial investigations found one of the women's employees had landed at the low-cost carrier terminal (LCCT) from Phnom Penh the night before and had slipped past the Customs checkpoint.
“We believe her staff abused the green lane facility and special treatment accorded to tour agencies to camouflage the illicit trade.
“Initial investigations revealed six of her staff, including a woman, had succeeded in smuggling drugs 25 times over the past four months using the modus operandi.
“Based on a rough estimate, they may have smuggled in 75kg of drugs worth RM18.7mil during the period,” she said here yesterday.
Siti Baya said the businesswoman and the Nigerian were nabbed at a house in Kepong while the other two men, who were employees of her travel agency, were detained at another location where Customs officers also seized a bag containing syabu hidden among clothes and children's toys.
“The four have been remanded to assist in the investigation under Section 39B of the Dangerous Drugs Act 1952,” she said.
The offence carries the death penalty if convicted.
Siti Baya said investigations showed each drug mule was paid RM3,000 when they returned from “familiarisation trips” to Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Manila, Bangladesh, Johannesburg, Cape Town, Mozambique and Singapore among other destinations.
She said the police had detained six of the agency workers, aged 20 to 30, who allegedly acted as drug mules.
They would appear as prosecution witnesses.
Matta’s insurance from premium RM 10
Malaysian Association of Tour and Travel Agents (Matta) president Datuk Mohd Khalid Harun said under the new travel insurance scheme, travellers can be insured up to 20 areas of coverage including eight in critical areas.
The eight areas include medical and hospitalisation, emergency medical evacuation, reimbursement of deposits or full payment of air tickets or tour packages, repatriation of mortal remains, compassionate visitation benefits, accidental deaths, permanent disablement and 24 hours emergency hotline.
“Outbound travel insurance will be made mandatory effective March 1 for Matta members selling outbound tour packages of transportation via air, sea and coach from Malaysia.
"It will be compulsory for all tour and travel agencies to offer this new scheme,” said Mohd Khalid after presenting appointment letters to six insurance companies at the launching ceremony of the Travel Insurance Scheme by Matta at Matrade Exhibition & Convention Centre here yesterday.
He said Matta had received numerous complaints from public who faced trouble bringing back their loved ones who had died abroad.
“This can go a long way for those who struggle to settle the high cost of medical bills while on holiday overseas, or for lost luggage and travel delays.
“You want to enjoy your vacation with your loved ones and come home safe and sound. You want to have fond memories of your holidays and have some money left for your daily expenses so that you can start saving for your next vacation,” he said.
Mohd Khalid said there have been countless cases where travel agents became insolvent or absconded with the hard-earned income of consumers.
He stressed Matta has been pushing to make travel insurance mandatory to protect the interest of customers.
When asked if action will be taken against those MATTA members who flaunt the law, Mohd Khalid warned they will be referred to the Tourism Ministry.
Under the new travel insurance scheme, coverages will apply based on its duration, type of coverage and destination. “For example for travel duration up to five days, domestic travellers need only pay RM10, RM20 within Asia and RM35 in other countries,” he said.
When asked about credit card facilities offering travel insurance, Mohd Khalid said it was up to consumers to choose which scheme they preferred.
He also said the travel insurance scheme is open to foreigners are here for a holiday.
Consumer groups query scheme’s worth
Federation of Malaysian Consumers Associations (Fomca) president N. Marimuthu told The Malay Mail the public should have the option of choosing any type of travel insurance including using one’s own insurance.
“While it is a good idea to offer travellers such insurance packages, consumers should be allowed to decide if the insurance offered suited them.
“The terms and condition of the insurance should be clear and must benefit consumers. I use my own travel insurance as it is tailored to suit my needs.
“Consumers must also see for themselves if their personal credit card facilities meet their expectations in terms of coverage,” he said when asked to comment on the move by Matta.
Meanwhile, Consumers’ Association of Subang and Shah Alam, Selangor president Datuk Dr Jacob George said the public must be careful not to incur extra cost.
“Most credit cards would cover travel insurance and it is important to make sure that they are not charged extra.”
Restoring firefly habitat
KUALA SELANGOR: Six hundred tree saplings, planted in a bid to restore
the habitat of fireflies, earned Selangor and AEON Co (M) Bhd a spot in
the Malaysian Book of Records.
“I’m so thankful to the state for acquiring this plot of land once they heard of our three-year planting programme to save the fireflies,” said AEON managing director Nur Qamarina Chew.
Their objective is to conserve one of Malaysia’s most attractive tourist destinations as part of their Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR).

Volunteers getting their hands dirty to help save the firefly habitat.
In 2010, the state acquired the agricultural land, formally owned by villagers, for about RM60,000 per acre.
In total, RM7.5 million was paid for the land and to bulldoze existing plantations to plant new trees along the riverbank of Kampung Bukit Belimbing.
. Among the trees planted were sago, macaranga, malabera, ficus and nipah, all of which are suitable for firefly larvae nesting.
“Today is only the first of three phases, and we hope this project will succeed in ensuring fireflies will not become extinct,” said Nur.
Some 400 volunteers, which included AEON staff, villagers, local government personnel and university students, came together to plant the trees which should take three to four years to mature.
Joining them at the site was Menteri Besar Tan Sri Khalid Ibrahim, who launched the project and subsequently planted a tree sapling tagged with his name.
“Tagging the tree is a good idea, because those who planted them today will be adopting the tree and returning to make sure their plant is growing well,” he said.
Khalid pointed out that this will also ensure the firefly habitat is always monitored and maintained by the public in years to come.
“This project is very beneficial as it also teaches the locals to maximise land usage for new improvements and developments in the village,” he said.
For the future, Khalid plans to develop the area by improving the connectivity of the village and expanding the firefly tourist industry.
Among ideas he mooted were building a light rail transit (LRT) and mass rapid transit (MRT) traveling from the village into Kuala Lumpur.
“This will benefit both tourists and locals alike because they can travel via public transport to see the fireflies.”
Meanwhile, he also urged the people to maintain the breeding ground well and open it up to tourists who wanted to see fireflies in their natural habitat.
“The young can also see the larvae and learn how fireflies are produced, apart from enjoying the 20-minute boat ride to see them at the riverbank,” said Khalid.
All these improvements can help boost the economy there and bring in more business to local traders and the hotel industry in Kuala Selangor.
Also present at the tree planting was AEON chairman Datuk Abdullah Mohd Yusof, Bukit Melawati assemblyperson M Muthiah and deputy state secretary for development Datuk Noordin Sulaimani.
“I’m so thankful to the state for acquiring this plot of land once they heard of our three-year planting programme to save the fireflies,” said AEON managing director Nur Qamarina Chew.
Their objective is to conserve one of Malaysia’s most attractive tourist destinations as part of their Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR).
Volunteers getting their hands dirty to help save the firefly habitat.
In 2010, the state acquired the agricultural land, formally owned by villagers, for about RM60,000 per acre.
In total, RM7.5 million was paid for the land and to bulldoze existing plantations to plant new trees along the riverbank of Kampung Bukit Belimbing.
. Among the trees planted were sago, macaranga, malabera, ficus and nipah, all of which are suitable for firefly larvae nesting.
“Today is only the first of three phases, and we hope this project will succeed in ensuring fireflies will not become extinct,” said Nur.
Some 400 volunteers, which included AEON staff, villagers, local government personnel and university students, came together to plant the trees which should take three to four years to mature.
Joining them at the site was Menteri Besar Tan Sri Khalid Ibrahim, who launched the project and subsequently planted a tree sapling tagged with his name.
“Tagging the tree is a good idea, because those who planted them today will be adopting the tree and returning to make sure their plant is growing well,” he said.
Khalid pointed out that this will also ensure the firefly habitat is always monitored and maintained by the public in years to come.
“This project is very beneficial as it also teaches the locals to maximise land usage for new improvements and developments in the village,” he said.
For the future, Khalid plans to develop the area by improving the connectivity of the village and expanding the firefly tourist industry.
Among ideas he mooted were building a light rail transit (LRT) and mass rapid transit (MRT) traveling from the village into Kuala Lumpur.
“This will benefit both tourists and locals alike because they can travel via public transport to see the fireflies.”
Meanwhile, he also urged the people to maintain the breeding ground well and open it up to tourists who wanted to see fireflies in their natural habitat.
“The young can also see the larvae and learn how fireflies are produced, apart from enjoying the 20-minute boat ride to see them at the riverbank,” said Khalid.
All these improvements can help boost the economy there and bring in more business to local traders and the hotel industry in Kuala Selangor.
Also present at the tree planting was AEON chairman Datuk Abdullah Mohd Yusof, Bukit Melawati assemblyperson M Muthiah and deputy state secretary for development Datuk Noordin Sulaimani.
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Quote: Rudyard Kipling
“The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it.”
Malaysia’s pink deals a hit with city women
Bangalore sends the second largest number of tourists to the south Asian
country which is popular for its colourful festivals and scenic beauty
Move over, male backpackers. The travellers catching the attention of tourism officials around the world these days are women. And we are not talking just about single working women, but housewives looking to take a break.
Special packages with everything that appeals to the fairer sex — from spas to shopping deals — are being offered as part of what the tourism officials describe as pink packages, with Malaysia leading from the front.
“We had close to seven lakh Indians travelling to Malaysia, of which 45 per cent were from the south. Bangalore is the second city that sends the most number of tourists,” says Manohar Periaswamy, director (India), Tourism Malaysia.
“We have a number of homemakers coming to Malaysia in specialised packages, which we call pink packages,” he said.
Shoppers’ paradise
“In April, we have a three-day shoe festival coming up which will feature the best brands in the world. Not many know that Jimmy Choo is Malaysian and he is its brand ambassador. Most brands will be available at least at a 30 per cent discount,” says Noran Ujang, acting director of international marketing division, Tourism Malaysia.
The travel agents too swear by these packages. “Since vacations are as cheap as Rs 30,000 for a four-day visit, it is within the budget of non-working women. We include spa treatments, cottage handicraft visits and even cooking classes in these packages,” says Vinay Marathe, the general manager of a Mumbai-based travel company which offers these packages.
While the single working women are open to adventure, most homemakers look to relax during the vacation. “At least 5,000 women from south India go on this trip. Chennai even has a club that does it as a yearly routine,” says Mohd Izal bin Mahd Nor, director, Tourism Malaysia.
Belinda Byford, a 30-something homemaker, recently took off with five of her closest friends to Kuala Lumpur on a five-day vacation.
“Some of my friends are from conservative backgrounds and are cautious when they go on holiday with their families. So when we go by ourselves, they just let go and have fun. In April, we have a family vacation, and when our husbands and children are busy during the rest of the year, we take off. Since it is for a short duration, they can manage well too,” she says.
Move over, male backpackers. The travellers catching the attention of tourism officials around the world these days are women. And we are not talking just about single working women, but housewives looking to take a break.
Special packages with everything that appeals to the fairer sex — from spas to shopping deals — are being offered as part of what the tourism officials describe as pink packages, with Malaysia leading from the front.
“We had close to seven lakh Indians travelling to Malaysia, of which 45 per cent were from the south. Bangalore is the second city that sends the most number of tourists,” says Manohar Periaswamy, director (India), Tourism Malaysia.
“We have a number of homemakers coming to Malaysia in specialised packages, which we call pink packages,” he said.
Shoppers’ paradise
Given the fact that the nation is a preferred shopping destination
and naturally attractive to women, it comes as little surprise that its
government wants to cash in on it.
“In April, we have a three-day shoe festival coming up which will feature the best brands in the world. Not many know that Jimmy Choo is Malaysian and he is its brand ambassador. Most brands will be available at least at a 30 per cent discount,” says Noran Ujang, acting director of international marketing division, Tourism Malaysia.
The travel agents too swear by these packages. “Since vacations are as cheap as Rs 30,000 for a four-day visit, it is within the budget of non-working women. We include spa treatments, cottage handicraft visits and even cooking classes in these packages,” says Vinay Marathe, the general manager of a Mumbai-based travel company which offers these packages.
While the single working women are open to adventure, most homemakers look to relax during the vacation. “At least 5,000 women from south India go on this trip. Chennai even has a club that does it as a yearly routine,” says Mohd Izal bin Mahd Nor, director, Tourism Malaysia.
Belinda Byford, a 30-something homemaker, recently took off with five of her closest friends to Kuala Lumpur on a five-day vacation.
“Some of my friends are from conservative backgrounds and are cautious when they go on holiday with their families. So when we go by ourselves, they just let go and have fun. In April, we have a family vacation, and when our husbands and children are busy during the rest of the year, we take off. Since it is for a short duration, they can manage well too,” she says.
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Malaysia is a mega-biologically diverse country
Malaysia is one of the twelve mega-biologically diverse countries which
boasts at least 15,000 species of flowering plants, 300 species of
mammals, 150,000 species of invertebrates, and 4,000 species of fishes,
creating unique niche eco and agro tourism activities. Visitors can
learn the difference between black and white pepper in Sarawak or pick
durians from the Penang orchards, Asia's most unusual fruit. One of the
most popular voluntourism tours to Malaysia is to help save the
orangutan, Malaysia's most iconic and strikingly beautiful mammal, with
the award winning Great Projects Ltd and immerse themselves in the local
culture through Malaysia's network of homestays.
In less than 15 years, the number of orangutans in the wild have nearly halved to 7,000, putting the species on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources) red-list. Tourism Malaysia, in conjunction with twice winners of the Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism awards, The Great Orangutan Project, is helping save the ape with the aid of volunteers.
The project, based in Sarawak, aims to maintain a genetically sustainable population and create well-protected habitats to secure the survival of the species. To accomplish this, the project depends on volunteers to work with the local community to re-establish a successful rehabilitation and release scheme for orphaned or displaced orangutans. This enables volunteers to get up close and personal whilst caring for the orangutans. The volunteerism experience is a fantastic opportunity to help save the orangutan as well as a great hands-on experience for those seeking a career break, gap year, for retirees or even a family seeking an educational experience. Volunteers contribute £1,280 plus travel costs and their invaluable time.
In terms of agro tourism, over 161 homestays are available where volunteers can discover local agricultural practices like feeding the ducks, tending to vegetables or picking seasonal fruits as well as bonding with a local family and community. The volunteers' input helps improve the incomes of small farms and rural communities as well as increasing its economic potential. Other agro tourism activities include visiting fruit orchards in Johor as well as rubber, pepper, fish and flower farms to learn about the variety of products making up Malaysia's agricultural economy.
In less than 15 years, the number of orangutans in the wild have nearly halved to 7,000, putting the species on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources) red-list. Tourism Malaysia, in conjunction with twice winners of the Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism awards, The Great Orangutan Project, is helping save the ape with the aid of volunteers.
The project, based in Sarawak, aims to maintain a genetically sustainable population and create well-protected habitats to secure the survival of the species. To accomplish this, the project depends on volunteers to work with the local community to re-establish a successful rehabilitation and release scheme for orphaned or displaced orangutans. This enables volunteers to get up close and personal whilst caring for the orangutans. The volunteerism experience is a fantastic opportunity to help save the orangutan as well as a great hands-on experience for those seeking a career break, gap year, for retirees or even a family seeking an educational experience. Volunteers contribute £1,280 plus travel costs and their invaluable time.
In terms of agro tourism, over 161 homestays are available where volunteers can discover local agricultural practices like feeding the ducks, tending to vegetables or picking seasonal fruits as well as bonding with a local family and community. The volunteers' input helps improve the incomes of small farms and rural communities as well as increasing its economic potential. Other agro tourism activities include visiting fruit orchards in Johor as well as rubber, pepper, fish and flower farms to learn about the variety of products making up Malaysia's agricultural economy.
EU allowed Myanmar officials to travel
BRUSSELS - The European Union lifted a travel ban on 87 Myanmar
officials on Friday, including the president, in an effort to encourage
more political reforms but kept an assets freeze against them.
Hailing the "remarkable programme of political reform" in Myanmar, the EU said it eased restrictions on President Thein Sein, the vice presidents, cabinet members, the speakers of the two houses of parliament and their families.
"We have seen historic changes in Burma/Myanmar and we strongly encourage the authorities to continue this process," EU foreign policy chief Catherine Ashton said in a statement.
The decision gave legal effect to an agreement among EU foreign ministers in January to begin easing sanctions on Myanmar. The ministers also pledged further action if the reforms continue.
The 27-nation bloc is reviewing its sanctions, which include an arms embargo, a ban on gems and an assets freeze on nearly 500 people and 900 entities. They are all due to expire on April 30.
"I will visit Burma/Myanmar in April after the by-elections, by which time I hope we will have had the chance to complete the review and to have made decisions at an EU level to respond to what I hope will be continued progress," Ashton said.
The Myanmar government assured EU development commissioner Andris Piebalgs during his visit earlier this week that April's by-elections, which will herald the opposition's return to mainstream politics, will be democratic.
Hailing the "remarkable programme of political reform" in Myanmar, the EU said it eased restrictions on President Thein Sein, the vice presidents, cabinet members, the speakers of the two houses of parliament and their families.
"We have seen historic changes in Burma/Myanmar and we strongly encourage the authorities to continue this process," EU foreign policy chief Catherine Ashton said in a statement.
The decision gave legal effect to an agreement among EU foreign ministers in January to begin easing sanctions on Myanmar. The ministers also pledged further action if the reforms continue.
The 27-nation bloc is reviewing its sanctions, which include an arms embargo, a ban on gems and an assets freeze on nearly 500 people and 900 entities. They are all due to expire on April 30.
"I will visit Burma/Myanmar in April after the by-elections, by which time I hope we will have had the chance to complete the review and to have made decisions at an EU level to respond to what I hope will be continued progress," Ashton said.
The Myanmar government assured EU development commissioner Andris Piebalgs during his visit earlier this week that April's by-elections, which will herald the opposition's return to mainstream politics, will be democratic.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Vietnam - review by Mark Stratton
A nice article on Vietnam, personally i've been to Hanoi and found it a nice place to visit during their "winter" season which is starting from Nov 15 till February. The weather is just suitable for traveler to move around without much humid and heat. Below is an article written by Mark on his trip from UK. I've read throughout the article but couldn't find there's any "improvement" review given by Mark. One thing I could point out that "Traffic" is one of the key element for new comer who's planning to go to Hanoi. The motorcycle just doesn't stop for pedestrian and pedestrian cannot standstill and wait for them to stop for you to cross over a road. So, newcomer need to learn on how to cross the road while adjusting to a moving vehicle passing by you. So, my recommendation is Hanoi's downtown is not a suitable for family with young kids to move around.
A breathless week in non-stop Vietnam
Mark Stratton embarks on a turbo-charged seven days travelling from
north to south – all made possible by the first direct flights from the
UK
'Good Morning Vietnam!" boomed the taxi driver shuttling me from the airport to breakfast in Hanoi.
His Robin Williams impersonation wasn't great. But I'd certainly
arrived early enough – on the first-ever non-stop flight from the UK to
Vietnam – to witness Hanoi waking up. The city's parks swayed to tai
chi; hungry patrons breakfasted on pho noodles at pavement food-stalls.
Even Hanoi's millions of motorcyclists had not yet reached the
ear-splitting pitch that marks the daily rush hour.
Vietnam Airlines has just begun flying from Gatwick to the capital, Hanoi, and the main commercial hub, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), each at opposing ends of the country. Is Vietnam, then, now within the realm of an exotic week-long break? I decided to find out during a turbo-charged trip flying "open jaw" in to Hanoi and out of Ho Chi Minh City. In between I'd experience one of Asia's great rail journeys, plus Halong Bay: one of the world's greatest natural wonders.
Vietnam has embraced the internet energetically, and before travelling I'd saved time booking everything online: visa, airport transfers, train ticket, day trips and accommodation. My hotel was a friendly new guesthouse called the Art Hotel in Hanoi's atmospheric old quarter around Hoan Kiem Lake. There was no app available, however, to assist with my disorientation amid the old quarter's frenetic maze of markets, cafés, street-restaurants and crumbling French colonial architecture.
Hanoi became Vietnam's capital in 1010. The old quarter's labyrinthine geography appears to have changed little since then. My survival strategy for exploring it (beyond not getting run over by scooters) involved allowing fate to deliver me hither and thither. I happened upon backstreet gems such as Bach Ma's 18th-century temple dedicated to a white horse spirit, and a handsome 19th-century house at 87 Ma May, whose hidden courtyards and creaky wooden rooms were redolent of a forgotten age.
Besides baguettes, Hanoi's most eloquent Francophone expression is the decadently opulent Metropole Hotel, which dates back to 1901. During the Vietnam War it played host to various anti-war celebrities, including Jane Fonda, while the hotel recently unearthed a forgotten air-raid shelter where Joan Baez part-recorded her protest ballad "Where are you now, my son?". But the times, as her old flame Dylan noted, they are a-changin'.
Luxury outlets such as Bentley and Cartier surround the hotel, a reflection of communist Vietnam's post-war economic liberalisation. Its reforms have mirrored China's authoritarian capitalism. Hammer-and-sickle motifs on public buildings and visibly prominent green-uniformed soldiers are a reminder to the visitor that Vietnam's one-party state remains a politically repressive regime, intolerant of dissent.
The arrival of top-end British motor cars and luxury French watchmakers would not have amused Vietnam's revolutionary guiding light, Ho Chi Minh, with whom I would come face-to-face with later at his mausoleum. A short walk outside the old quarter, amid a stylish suburb of French Art Deco villas around Ba Dinh Square, and I joined a lengthy queue of Vietnamese filing into his monolithic mausoleum: a Soviet-style Parthenon. Inside, I had less than a minute to file by his waxy corpse (still with signature straggly goatee) as it lay in quiet repose inside a glass chamber flanked by expressionless soldiers with glinting bayonets. I exited at the propaganda-drenched Ho Chi Minh Museum, perhaps Hanoi's most obvious expression of concrete neo-brutalism.
Hanoi is also responsible for some of South-east Asia's tastiest street food, the best of which I sought with Belgian expatriate Yves from HG Travel, with whom I'd organised several excursions. Down Ngo Trang Tien near his office, we ate bun dau: tofu served with vermicelli-noodle cakes soaked in fermented squid sauce.
"Many visitors don't like this strong taste," said Yves. I did. The 75p dish combined hot chilli, slimy vermicelli and the pungent sauce, but somehow it worked.
Pavement eateries aren't the limit of Hanoi's culinary ambitions. That evening I dined at the Press Club, haunt of Hanoi's well-heeled – a decadent whirl of white tablecloths, silver service and Asian woodwork. It may be the swankiest fine-dining eatery in town, but my three-course meal (featuring Australian tenderloin beef in green peppercorn sauce) cost just 975,000 dong (around £30).
The general manager, Kurt Walter, told me that since opening in 1997 the restaurant's clientele has expanded from expatriates to a mix that now includes the Vietnamese nouveau riche.
Before heading south, there was time for an excursion eastwards, to the coast. After a three-hour drive from Hanoi, I was ensconced on a wooden junk marvelling at Halong Bay's breathtaking limestone karsts: sharpened like shark-fins, or undercut to form stone toadstools, or in pitted rows resembling cavity-filled dentures.
"I've been here 100 times but never tire of their beauty," said Dang Dong, my guide. During our four-hour cruise we watched foraging sea-eagles and ate squid, tiger prawns and cockles. Then it was time to shuttle back to Hanoi to catch the 11pm Reunification Express to Ho Chi Minh City.
She left on time. I boarded the rather functionally named SE3 service, which pulled out of Hanoi station with a groan of metal I'd heard before in disaster movies. I'd booked into a comfortable four-berth soft-sleeper cabin for a whopping 1.76 million dong (just £54). The 30-hour, 1,726km marathon south proved a scenic revelation.
Relaunched in 1976 after wartime partition, the rail route shadows two borders – those of Laos and Cambodia – while to the east the Gulf of Tonkin morphs into the South China Sea. My fellow passengers came and went, jumping off at exotic destinations such as Hue, the ancient imperial capital straddling the Perfume River; and Danang for Hoi An, a coastal port whose architecture has been richly augmented by centuries of foreign trade. I remained for the long haul, immersed in Graham Greene's Vietnam classic, The Quiet American, and gazing seawards as the SE3 snaked through tunnels, along plunging coastal cliffs, past deserted beaches and rice-paddies being furrowed by buffalo.
I arrived in Ho Chi Minh City a mere 96 frenetic hours after touching down in Hanoi. During the 2002 remake of The Quiet American, Michael Caine and the rest of the cast stayed at Hotel Caravelle, which hosted journalists during the Vietnam War. Even after the hotel was bombed in 1964, they continued frequenting its Saigon Saigon Bar, which still swings away on the 9th floor. The hotel has been refurbished along with Saigon's name: it is now Ho Chi Minh City's most luxurious offering. I rolled in at 6am after two nights on the rails, eager for a bed that didn't rattle.
The next morning, I learnt that Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi are worlds apart. Founded in 1698, the southern city outshines its northern rival in size and population, and in the burgeoning capitalism epitomised by the designer soaked Dong Khoi Street, nicknamed locally "Champs-Elysées". Its broader French boulevards prove even more hazardous to cross than in Hanoi – with relentless, molten streams of scooters.
There's rivalry, too, between the cities. I was variously told the North Vietnamese were haughty, unfriendly, too serious, and obsessed by bureaucracy. Tittle tattle, maybe, but the cultural differences are still tangible between the Western-influenced south and the more communist north. There are also differing dialects and cuisine, with Ho Chi Minh City's food influenced by its large Chinese contingency and its climate – it was a good 10C hotter than chilly Hanoi when I visited.
Many of the city's highlights fall within administrative District 1 (the equivalent of a central business zone) including two must-sees around Tao Dan Park. Communist tanks stormed the Independence Palace on 30 April 1975, ending the war. The tanks are still mounted within this former South Vietnamese headquarters in attractive grounds of azalea and frangipani. The building itself has become the Reunification Palace, but retains its 1960s-era modernist interior that is full-on Thunderbirds retro, all curving sofas and leather-clad cocktail bars.
Nearby, the absorbing War Remnants Museum hosts sobering exhibits of Agent Orange's lasting effects on the Vietnamese, alongside a gripping collection of wartime photography seen through the lenses of Robert Capa and his contemporaries.
Meanwhile, Ben Thanh market seduces visitors with souvenir shops, bars, spas and a nightly food market. On my last evening, I grazed there on banh xeo crêpes stuffed with bean sprouts, before migrating to Thuong Hien street to eat steamed crab claws and green mussels. But I preferred the grittier authenticity of Binh Tay market, 10km away in Cholon, established by Saigon's sizeable Chinese community. I reached it by riding pillion on a xe-om motorbike-taxi (drivers tout for business on every street corner). It's a handy service, but my safety helmet's markings – "hope you are lucky" – probably said it best.
One week after leaving London, the evening timing of Vietnam Airlines' Friday departure permitted one last excursion; 60km outside Saigon lie the remarkable Cu Chi defensive tunnels, dug on three levels by the Viet Cong in the 1960s. My guide, Dam, and I potholed through sections of the 250km complex, which survived B52 bombing, and rediscovered the surface in plenty of time for my flight.
I arrived back in London at 6am on Saturday morning weary but with the weekend to shake off jetlag. Slow travel it wasn't. But a non-stop flight seemed tailor-made for a non-stop destination. Vietnam never pauses for breath.
The Itinerary
Friday: Depart Gatwick on flight VN0144 at noon
Saturday: Arrive Hanoi 6.40am Hanoi sightseeing
Sunday: Hanoi sightseeing
Monday: Daytrip to Ha Long Bay from 8am-6pm; board SE3 Reunification Express to Ho Chi Minh City at 11pm
Tuesday: All day on Train
Wednesday: Arrive Ho Chi Minh City at 5am. Sightseeing
Thursday: Sightseeing
Friday: Cu Chi Tunnels excursion from 8am to 2pm. Depart Ho Chi Minh City on flight VN0141 at 11.15pm
Saturday: Arrive Gatwick 6am
Travel Essentials
Getting There
Vietnam Airlines (020-3263 2062; vietnamairlines.com) flies non-stop from Gatwick to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City twice weekly; £618 return. Open-jaw fares start at £780.
Staying There
Art Hotel, Hanoi (00 84 98 234 5239; hanoiarthotel.com). Doubles start at US$38.50 (£26), including breakfast.
Hotel Metropole, Hanoi (00 84 4 3826 6919; sofitel.com). Doubles from £175, room only. Hotel Caravelle, Ho Chi Minh City (00 84 8 3823 4999; caravellehotel.com). Doubles from $200 (£133), room only.
Getting Around
For train reservations, see vietnam-trains.com. A single ticket from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in a four-berth cabin costs 1.76m dong (£54).
Visiting There
Local operator HG Travel (hgtravel.com) can arrange excursions and tours to destinations such as Cu Chi and Halong Bay (bhayacruises.com).
The Press Club, Hanoi (00 84 4 3934 0888; hanoi-pressclub.com).
More Information
British passport-holders require a visa, available for £44 from the Vietnam Embassy, 12 Victoria Road, London W8 5RD (020-7937 1912; vietnamembassy.org.uk). Authorisation letters for visas on arrival can be obtained from myvietnamvisa.com for £12.29, plus a US$25 (£16.70) stamping fee on arrival. Vietnam Tourist Board: vietnamtourism.com
Original Article at http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/asia/a-breathless-week-in-nonstop-vietnam-6289674.html\
Vietnam Airlines has just begun flying from Gatwick to the capital, Hanoi, and the main commercial hub, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), each at opposing ends of the country. Is Vietnam, then, now within the realm of an exotic week-long break? I decided to find out during a turbo-charged trip flying "open jaw" in to Hanoi and out of Ho Chi Minh City. In between I'd experience one of Asia's great rail journeys, plus Halong Bay: one of the world's greatest natural wonders.
Vietnam has embraced the internet energetically, and before travelling I'd saved time booking everything online: visa, airport transfers, train ticket, day trips and accommodation. My hotel was a friendly new guesthouse called the Art Hotel in Hanoi's atmospheric old quarter around Hoan Kiem Lake. There was no app available, however, to assist with my disorientation amid the old quarter's frenetic maze of markets, cafés, street-restaurants and crumbling French colonial architecture.
Hanoi became Vietnam's capital in 1010. The old quarter's labyrinthine geography appears to have changed little since then. My survival strategy for exploring it (beyond not getting run over by scooters) involved allowing fate to deliver me hither and thither. I happened upon backstreet gems such as Bach Ma's 18th-century temple dedicated to a white horse spirit, and a handsome 19th-century house at 87 Ma May, whose hidden courtyards and creaky wooden rooms were redolent of a forgotten age.
Besides baguettes, Hanoi's most eloquent Francophone expression is the decadently opulent Metropole Hotel, which dates back to 1901. During the Vietnam War it played host to various anti-war celebrities, including Jane Fonda, while the hotel recently unearthed a forgotten air-raid shelter where Joan Baez part-recorded her protest ballad "Where are you now, my son?". But the times, as her old flame Dylan noted, they are a-changin'.
Luxury outlets such as Bentley and Cartier surround the hotel, a reflection of communist Vietnam's post-war economic liberalisation. Its reforms have mirrored China's authoritarian capitalism. Hammer-and-sickle motifs on public buildings and visibly prominent green-uniformed soldiers are a reminder to the visitor that Vietnam's one-party state remains a politically repressive regime, intolerant of dissent.
The arrival of top-end British motor cars and luxury French watchmakers would not have amused Vietnam's revolutionary guiding light, Ho Chi Minh, with whom I would come face-to-face with later at his mausoleum. A short walk outside the old quarter, amid a stylish suburb of French Art Deco villas around Ba Dinh Square, and I joined a lengthy queue of Vietnamese filing into his monolithic mausoleum: a Soviet-style Parthenon. Inside, I had less than a minute to file by his waxy corpse (still with signature straggly goatee) as it lay in quiet repose inside a glass chamber flanked by expressionless soldiers with glinting bayonets. I exited at the propaganda-drenched Ho Chi Minh Museum, perhaps Hanoi's most obvious expression of concrete neo-brutalism.
Hanoi is also responsible for some of South-east Asia's tastiest street food, the best of which I sought with Belgian expatriate Yves from HG Travel, with whom I'd organised several excursions. Down Ngo Trang Tien near his office, we ate bun dau: tofu served with vermicelli-noodle cakes soaked in fermented squid sauce.
"Many visitors don't like this strong taste," said Yves. I did. The 75p dish combined hot chilli, slimy vermicelli and the pungent sauce, but somehow it worked.
Pavement eateries aren't the limit of Hanoi's culinary ambitions. That evening I dined at the Press Club, haunt of Hanoi's well-heeled – a decadent whirl of white tablecloths, silver service and Asian woodwork. It may be the swankiest fine-dining eatery in town, but my three-course meal (featuring Australian tenderloin beef in green peppercorn sauce) cost just 975,000 dong (around £30).
The general manager, Kurt Walter, told me that since opening in 1997 the restaurant's clientele has expanded from expatriates to a mix that now includes the Vietnamese nouveau riche.
Before heading south, there was time for an excursion eastwards, to the coast. After a three-hour drive from Hanoi, I was ensconced on a wooden junk marvelling at Halong Bay's breathtaking limestone karsts: sharpened like shark-fins, or undercut to form stone toadstools, or in pitted rows resembling cavity-filled dentures.
"I've been here 100 times but never tire of their beauty," said Dang Dong, my guide. During our four-hour cruise we watched foraging sea-eagles and ate squid, tiger prawns and cockles. Then it was time to shuttle back to Hanoi to catch the 11pm Reunification Express to Ho Chi Minh City.
She left on time. I boarded the rather functionally named SE3 service, which pulled out of Hanoi station with a groan of metal I'd heard before in disaster movies. I'd booked into a comfortable four-berth soft-sleeper cabin for a whopping 1.76 million dong (just £54). The 30-hour, 1,726km marathon south proved a scenic revelation.
Relaunched in 1976 after wartime partition, the rail route shadows two borders – those of Laos and Cambodia – while to the east the Gulf of Tonkin morphs into the South China Sea. My fellow passengers came and went, jumping off at exotic destinations such as Hue, the ancient imperial capital straddling the Perfume River; and Danang for Hoi An, a coastal port whose architecture has been richly augmented by centuries of foreign trade. I remained for the long haul, immersed in Graham Greene's Vietnam classic, The Quiet American, and gazing seawards as the SE3 snaked through tunnels, along plunging coastal cliffs, past deserted beaches and rice-paddies being furrowed by buffalo.
I arrived in Ho Chi Minh City a mere 96 frenetic hours after touching down in Hanoi. During the 2002 remake of The Quiet American, Michael Caine and the rest of the cast stayed at Hotel Caravelle, which hosted journalists during the Vietnam War. Even after the hotel was bombed in 1964, they continued frequenting its Saigon Saigon Bar, which still swings away on the 9th floor. The hotel has been refurbished along with Saigon's name: it is now Ho Chi Minh City's most luxurious offering. I rolled in at 6am after two nights on the rails, eager for a bed that didn't rattle.
The next morning, I learnt that Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi are worlds apart. Founded in 1698, the southern city outshines its northern rival in size and population, and in the burgeoning capitalism epitomised by the designer soaked Dong Khoi Street, nicknamed locally "Champs-Elysées". Its broader French boulevards prove even more hazardous to cross than in Hanoi – with relentless, molten streams of scooters.
There's rivalry, too, between the cities. I was variously told the North Vietnamese were haughty, unfriendly, too serious, and obsessed by bureaucracy. Tittle tattle, maybe, but the cultural differences are still tangible between the Western-influenced south and the more communist north. There are also differing dialects and cuisine, with Ho Chi Minh City's food influenced by its large Chinese contingency and its climate – it was a good 10C hotter than chilly Hanoi when I visited.
Many of the city's highlights fall within administrative District 1 (the equivalent of a central business zone) including two must-sees around Tao Dan Park. Communist tanks stormed the Independence Palace on 30 April 1975, ending the war. The tanks are still mounted within this former South Vietnamese headquarters in attractive grounds of azalea and frangipani. The building itself has become the Reunification Palace, but retains its 1960s-era modernist interior that is full-on Thunderbirds retro, all curving sofas and leather-clad cocktail bars.
Nearby, the absorbing War Remnants Museum hosts sobering exhibits of Agent Orange's lasting effects on the Vietnamese, alongside a gripping collection of wartime photography seen through the lenses of Robert Capa and his contemporaries.
Meanwhile, Ben Thanh market seduces visitors with souvenir shops, bars, spas and a nightly food market. On my last evening, I grazed there on banh xeo crêpes stuffed with bean sprouts, before migrating to Thuong Hien street to eat steamed crab claws and green mussels. But I preferred the grittier authenticity of Binh Tay market, 10km away in Cholon, established by Saigon's sizeable Chinese community. I reached it by riding pillion on a xe-om motorbike-taxi (drivers tout for business on every street corner). It's a handy service, but my safety helmet's markings – "hope you are lucky" – probably said it best.
One week after leaving London, the evening timing of Vietnam Airlines' Friday departure permitted one last excursion; 60km outside Saigon lie the remarkable Cu Chi defensive tunnels, dug on three levels by the Viet Cong in the 1960s. My guide, Dam, and I potholed through sections of the 250km complex, which survived B52 bombing, and rediscovered the surface in plenty of time for my flight.
I arrived back in London at 6am on Saturday morning weary but with the weekend to shake off jetlag. Slow travel it wasn't. But a non-stop flight seemed tailor-made for a non-stop destination. Vietnam never pauses for breath.
The Itinerary
Friday: Depart Gatwick on flight VN0144 at noon
Saturday: Arrive Hanoi 6.40am Hanoi sightseeing
Sunday: Hanoi sightseeing
Monday: Daytrip to Ha Long Bay from 8am-6pm; board SE3 Reunification Express to Ho Chi Minh City at 11pm
Tuesday: All day on Train
Wednesday: Arrive Ho Chi Minh City at 5am. Sightseeing
Thursday: Sightseeing
Friday: Cu Chi Tunnels excursion from 8am to 2pm. Depart Ho Chi Minh City on flight VN0141 at 11.15pm
Saturday: Arrive Gatwick 6am
Travel Essentials
Getting There
Vietnam Airlines (020-3263 2062; vietnamairlines.com) flies non-stop from Gatwick to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City twice weekly; £618 return. Open-jaw fares start at £780.
Staying There
Art Hotel, Hanoi (00 84 98 234 5239; hanoiarthotel.com). Doubles start at US$38.50 (£26), including breakfast.
Hotel Metropole, Hanoi (00 84 4 3826 6919; sofitel.com). Doubles from £175, room only. Hotel Caravelle, Ho Chi Minh City (00 84 8 3823 4999; caravellehotel.com). Doubles from $200 (£133), room only.
Getting Around
For train reservations, see vietnam-trains.com. A single ticket from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in a four-berth cabin costs 1.76m dong (£54).
Visiting There
Local operator HG Travel (hgtravel.com) can arrange excursions and tours to destinations such as Cu Chi and Halong Bay (bhayacruises.com).
The Press Club, Hanoi (00 84 4 3934 0888; hanoi-pressclub.com).
More Information
British passport-holders require a visa, available for £44 from the Vietnam Embassy, 12 Victoria Road, London W8 5RD (020-7937 1912; vietnamembassy.org.uk). Authorisation letters for visas on arrival can be obtained from myvietnamvisa.com for £12.29, plus a US$25 (£16.70) stamping fee on arrival. Vietnam Tourist Board: vietnamtourism.com
Original Article at http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/asia/a-breathless-week-in-nonstop-vietnam-6289674.html\
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